Pandemic Uproots Philadelphia Orchestra Summer Travel Plans

This season, millions of individual trips were scratched and thousands of group journeys were called off, but when the Philadelphia Orchestra and its Music Director Yannick Nézet-Séguin cancelled its annual summer jaunts to Saratoga, NY and Vail, CO, it meant revoking hundreds of train and plane tickets, specialized cargo trips for instruments—try moving a 17th century cello valued at seven figures—and thousands of hotels, rentals and restaurant reservations.

Travel, domestic and international, has become an intricate part of the life of American orchestras, but who knew that the Philadelphia Orchestra launched its first tour just two years after it was founded, in 1900? Since then, it often carries the flag of its city but also the American flag. Indeed, it was the first American orchestra to perform in China.

Want a few numbers? During the 2018 Europe/Israel tour, 125 employees traveled 13,000 miles taking 6 flights to perform 11 concerts in 9 cities over 13 days. They carried 18.7 tons of cargo and performed for 16,000 audience members.

After only one week on the job last fall, Vice President Artistic Production Tanya Derksen found herself part of a touring party that included about 150 travelers (musicians, guests, staff members and stagehands) on her way to Taiwan, Japan and Korea. 

Remembering Photographer Peter Beard (1938-2020)

On Sunday, April 15, photographer and artist Peter Beard was found dead in the woods near his home in Montauk, New York. He was 82 years old and had been suffering from dementia.

I had the great pleasure of knowing and working with Peter throughout my career. Prior to meeting him, I was already a fan, well aware of his work as a photographer, artist, naturalist, and husband of supermodel Cheryl Tiegs.

In the early 1990s, I returned to New York City from a my life adventures of living in Paris and Africa. The first job I had was at Esquire magazine as an assistant fashion editor, where I first got to work with Peter.

One editor I worked with back then was Anne-Laure Lyon, who had ties to some of the best artists on the planet. Peter and Ann had a close working relationship and created fashion editorial like I had never seen before.

At the time, they had just returned from a fashion shoot on Peter’s Hog Ranch just outside of Nairobi. They styled the models and equally styled the Maasai tribe. It was a menswear publication but Peter always made sure that top female models were on set. Peter never liked photographing men—he once told me so. The only male model Peter liked to shoot with was Marcus Schenkenberg. Marcus was an adonis as well as the number one male model in the world at the time. He told me that he liked Marcus because Marcus could handle having a beautiful women in his arms with no fear. Marcus was in control and Peter liked that type of image. All he ever wanted to shoot were beautiful woman; he always said that women were the last beautiful thing left in the world.

I remember producing another shoot in Las Vegas with models Mark Vanderloo and Shana Zadrick, and a New York nightlife drag queen Candice Cane. For that story, Peter—who was famous for his safari photographs in Africa—had the idea of taking the viewer on a wild visual journey through the bright lights and sexual promiscuity in Sin City. The shoot started out just fine until we were asked my management at the Mirage hotel to leave because we had been too noisy and out of line. Peter had a hard time following rules.

Years after I left Esquire, I hired Peter throughout the years on several fashion and celebrity editorials. He taught me so much. He had amazing stories about Truman Capote, Diana Ross, Lee Radziwill, The Rolling Stones, and so many other famous friends. I remember once sleeping over at his home in Montauk; when I woke up, I saw a painting of Peter by artist Francis Bacon above my head.

Feestjurken

Among the treasures I have from Peter are a signed copy of his photography book The End of The Game, first published in 1965. The book is a collection of his diary-like text and photographs, documenting Africa’s imperiled wildlife including gruesome photographs of dead animals. He also gave me a photo of a giraffe signed and painted. I cherish it to this day.

If You Love A Fashion Brand, Buy Something Right Now

I cover retail. In the grand scheme of things, some retail is “essential” and some is not – or certainly, when looking at timeframes of even 1-2 years, there is much of retail that is not essential.

Fashion is not essential. The only clothing that could be argued to be essential might be kids’ clothes and maternity wear. Kids and bellies grow. Everything else can wait. That said, when we are through the other side of this pandemic, this non-essential status, on top of an overall retail industry behind in making the transformational investments required to be relevant in the future, means that many fashion brands you know and love may not make it past this next holiday season.

To be clear, the science of contagion is real, even if you can’t see its benefits directly with your own eyes. Social distancing works. No one should be weighing loss of life against an economy. We must live through the hand we have been dealt as best we can. In that context, it also means we must take a cold, hard look at the cards we have and prepare for what will come next.

In other words, if you think that every sector of retail can just pick up the pieces once everyone is able to get back to living, think again. Outside of travel and leisure, no industry will be more impacted than non-essential retail, and in that category, no vertical will be impacted more than fashion. Which means, if you can afford it, just like you’re buying takeout to help support your favorite restaurant, buy something from your favorite fashion brand, even if it’s only a gift card for later. 

Avondjurken

German Designer Marcell Von Berlin Brings Street Couture To Los Angeles

Since the opening of his eponymous store in Los Angeles last year, designer Marcell von Berlin has confidently landed on his feet in the USA’s competitive fashion market. Berlin’s unique street culture that continuously inspires Marcell von Berlin to create clothes that are labeled “street couture.” Masculine and feminine, confident and sensual - the bold sex appeal of his looks were already spotted on some celebrities including Jennifer Lopez, Malika Haqq, and Zedd. In addition to his womenswear, menswear and accessories collections, Marcell von Berlin has expanded this Fall with an underwear line that pays homage to West Hollywood’s increasingly gender-fluid crowd.

Understanding your target customers is one element of success, but it is not everything. Reflecting on his first year doing business in the USA, I sat down with German designer Marcell von Berlin to better understand his formula for success as a young fashion brand on the rise.

How would you describe the current state of fashion in LA? In Berlin?

Both cities transport a hip "easy-to-wear" vibe that inspires me. They also have a lot in common - it's not for nothing that they are sister cities. Both Berlin and L.A. offer enough space for personal development. Everyone is free to make their own choices and choose their own clothes to express themselves with. For me, fashion means a combination of things - freedom, a light attitude toward life that can be projected onto the style and a certain sexiness.

Why was it important for you to open a physical store in LA vs other US cities, like NYC?

Los Angeles has become my second home next to Berlin, which made it clear to me that we needed to open the flagship store here.  There is a special spirit in L.A. – it’s the place where a large majority of stars call home and the world pays attention to the fashion on the Hollywood red carpets. I loved the idea of adapting the color scheme of the two cities within the store concept.  While Berlin is a bit darker, sexier and more glamorous, the color concept at the Los Angeles store is more aligned with the blue sky, the ocean, the sun and thus creates an individual experience for each location.

Bridesmaid Dresses

Why Sustainable Fashion Matters

Summer is over and professional woman are falling back to the work routine. Whether you're shuffling between boardrooms or attending your nonprofit’s annual gala, most of us struggle to find tailored clothes for business environments that are sustainably made. Whether you are dressing for function, durability, or comfort, it is important to find pieces you can be proud to wear that still meet your sophisticated lifestyle when commitments call.

In recent years, sustainability has become a buzzword and turned a few heads. Just as consumers today are taking a closer look at the food they consume and the chemicals they put into their bodies, they are also shifting their purchasing decisions to create a cleaner environment through the clothes they wear.

What it really means.

Today, professional woman are savvier than ever and not only pay attention to the quality of their garments, but also the entire supply chain, production processes, and product afterlife. They are more aware that a hang tag using the word "sustainable" does not mean the retailer is using clean processes to develop that garment.

One of the biggest culprits in the fashion industry is "fast fashion," or clothes made cheaply to meet demands for the hot new styles. However, fast fashion is putting our future planet at risk.

After nearly 25 years in the industry, Melissa Nataadiningrat has over a dozen patents and immense product successes under her name, not to mention her extensive knowledge on sustainable fashion.

                                                     Ballkjoler